Our first stop was at Meteor Crater, near Winslow, Arizona. The crater is almost 700 feet deep, and three quarters of a mile across, the result of a massive meteor crashing at the site approximately 50,000 years ago. As with the Grand Canyon, pictures really don't do it justice. Geologists have been studying the site for almost a century now, and have concluded that about half of the meteor matter is beneath the ground, and the rest was scattered and vaporized. It was originally about 150 feet across. The largest remaining piece found to date is about 3 feet.
The Petrified Forest was next. This National Park is known for its petrified tree logs from the late Triassic Period, as well as fossils from the same timeframe. These were part of the Chinle Formation. All of the layers above the Chinle Formation eroded, exposing the fossils and petroglyphs. The remaining sections of the Chinle Formation are seen in the Painted Desert, which is also part of the park. It's fascinating to look at the fossilized log sections and be able to see the rings of the tree in the minerals that replaced the wood.
We continued along through the high plains at elevations between 5000 and 7000 feet, once again commenting on the vastness and emptiness of the landscape. Occasionally we would see a very modest house or trailer, all by itself. There are some small towns with clusters of these very modest homes, some neatly and tidily kept, and others almost shacks. One is struck by the amount of poverty in this area.
Driving through some of the towns out here felt like we had been transported back in time about 30 or 40 years. We stopped in Chambers, Arizona for lunch at the "Apple Dumplin' ". The outside look like a log cabin with horse shoes and other similar adornments. It had a sign saying that it was for sale, but at the same time noting that it was open. When we walked inside, the first thing we saw was a very large man with a beard sitting at the table nearest the door. The table had a crude wooden sign on it marked both "Reserved" and "Doc Holliday". The man was the only person visible in the restaurant. He glanced up when we walked in and told us to just sit down anywhere, so we did. The tables were all covered with lace tablecloths, which in turn were covered by clear plastic. Each table had its own wooden sign and name; we were at the Jesse James. All of the table legs were sitting inside Western boots. Each wooden chair had a bandanna tied to the back - all red, white, and blue. The walls and ceiling were covered with more Western paraphernalia wherever it could fit. I really wanted to take a photo, but I didn't think it would be appreciated.
As soon as we sat down, country Christian music started. We had obviously been seen. A woman appeared dressed in Western garb from head to toe: cowboy hat, cowgirl blouse, a long full skirt with an apron, and cowboy boots. The menu was primarily hamburgers and sandwiches, with a Navajo touch. Bob ordered a patty melt on Navajo Fry bread; I ordered the hamburger with green chili. These were surprisingly good. The hamburgers were large and clearly handmade; the green chili was an excellent addition that I'm going to have to try at home; and the fry bread was excellent. (Fry bread is a lot like the fried dough that you get at carnivals, but there's no sugar or other seasoning on it and it's used for sandwiches and tacos on the reservation.) The woman who took our order was not just the waitress, but also owner and cook. It can be a hard life, but she was cheerful as could be.
A bit more driving, and then we checked into our motel, the Best Western Canyon de Chelly, also a throwback to years ago. I can't remember the last time I stayed in a motel where we drove up to the door and there were no inside hallways. But it's neat and clean and we are here for just one night. One more thing I've never seen before: a note in the hotel warning us that if we use the hotel towels to clean our boots or our trucks, we would be charged for the towels. They left a special towel marked with an X in black magic marker for that use!
Dinner was at the restaurant across the parking lot, also part of the hotel. We were in the distinct minority. It appeared that everyone else was a member of Navajo nation and they all knew each other. It was a very gemütlicht setting.
Off to the canyon tomorrow, and then a drive through the reservation in Arizona, Utah, and Colorado.
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